December is upon us. Our year in the garden is winding down as the temperature drops. But for landscape lovers, there are visions of more than just sugar plums dancing in our heads.

Plant trees and shrubs
If you’ve been promising yourself (and your spouse, I’m guessing) that you really, really will get around to that landscaping project you’ve been discussing, don’t put it off until next spring. This is a very good time to plant trees and shrubs, depending on where you live. This currently applies to growing zones 7 – 10 Because they are in their dormant period, trees and shrubs are less likely to suffer “transplantation shock” at this time of year.

Preparing the site is the most important part of this project. As a general rule, you need to dig a hole about twice the size of the root system of the plant that you are planting or transplanting. If you have your own compost, add a generous amount to the bottom and sides of the hole.

If you are transplanting a tree from another location, it is important to set it in the hole as close as possible to the same level as it was in its previous home. Be sure the transplanted tree is sealed in well with water without flooding. You can “stake” larger or taller trees if there is a possibility they could be uprooted by strong winds or winter storms between now and next spring.

There is an excellent online resource with specific tips and instructions on transplanting just about tree and plant you can imagine. Go to http://www.humeseeds.com/qa_ndx2.htm#tran and scroll down to “Transplanting.” You can click on a direct link when you find this column at my Web site www.landsteward.org along with a lot of other useful resources.

O Tannenbaum
On the subject of trees, if you’re planning on buying a “live” (as opposed to artificial) Christmas tree, consider buying a REAL live one, complete with roots, that you can plant as part of your landscape after the Holidays.

A few tips: Buy a tree that is balled in burlap and keep it balled while in the house. Keep it in the house for as short a time as possible. Keep it moist but not really wet. If possible, choose the outdoor location and dig the hole before you bring the tree indoors, because the ground might be frozen too hard for easy digging later!

Keep the soil in a wheelbarrow in a shed or garage so it will be easy to handle at planting time. If the ball was bound with nylon twine, remove it before planting. If the root ball is in a wire basket, it is okay to leave it on when you plant it as the roots will find their way out.

Feed the lawn
If you’re going to fertilize your lawn, the first two weeks of December are a good time to do it. This is because fertilizing at the onset of winter supports and improves root strength while your lawn slowly continues to grow through its semi-dormant period. Look for a slow release 3-1-2 formula, and use about one pound per 1,000 square feet of lawn. Cool season grasses would need light follow-up doses 2 to 4 times over the year; warm season grasses perhaps 3 to 6 applications.

If you do decide to fertilize the lawn, be sure to rake away any remaining fallen leaves or other debris before you start.

Compost time
Add those (shredded) leaves to your compost pile, being sure to turn them from time to time to prevent mold forming. If you are not already the proud owner of a composting system, December is a good time to start. By next spring, you’ll have some valuable compost for your spring planting.

Essentially, compost is the broken-down residue of assorted organic material that has been worked over by worms and microscopic organisms. By the time they’ve finished with it, you have a rich, loamy brown substance that looks nothing like its original components.

You can simply start a “pile” in an out-of-the-way location or construct something a bit more permanent. I wrote a column that details some simple and effective ways to start and maintain a compost system. You can find it at http://www.greenwoodnursery.com/page.cfm/33712

Most of all, enjoy your December landscape!

The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org

QUESTION: “Are you supposed to mow down daylilies and [ornamental] grasses? If so, should it be done in the fall or in the spring? I planted blue fescue last year and have not mown down at all yet. I also planted new grass this spring but I don’t remember the name. I have several daylilies and some are quite old. I have never mowed them.” – Pat Nalty

ANSWER: With regard to the daylilies, you can mow them down anytime now, if you wish. An alternative would be to dig them up, divide them and then replant them to increase the coverage. Doing this now would give them a chance to settle in to their new environment during the winter.

When it comes to grasses, annual grooming is all that is needed, usually at the end of winter as the new grass is beginning to emerge.

QUESTION: “I recently planted 25 Old Fashioned Lilacs to enhance an existing hedge after professional removal of some invasive buckthorn. The lilacs are struggling despite watering, fertilizing when planting, etc. Is there something I can do to encourage more growth than just a few leaves at the top of each stem and revive the 6 stems that sprouted a few leaves initially and now are bare?

“We had unusually hot weather for many weeks which may have been a factor. I’d appreciate any suggestions you may have.” – Lois Engstrom

ANSWER: The hot weather could indeed be a factor. There is another possibility. If the buckthorn were very close to the lilac when they were removed, the lilac could have gone into shock. You might want to put bone meal around the roots of the lilac to help regenerate a better root system for the following spring.

Now, here’s a comment from a reader concerning an answer I gave recently concerning ways to deter snakes. The original question concerned ways to keep snakes away from a camp site and I suggested moth balls.

COMMENT: “I look forward to reading your articles each week, but was a bit unsettled by an answer you gave concerning snakes.

“Moth balls are not the best solution to deter snakes from an area. The snakes are attracted to the area because of the habitat and what it provides for them. They are either finding shelter or food and the best way to deter them is eliminating these things. By eliminating brush piles or dense under story plantings the snakes and their food sources will not have shelter.

“Moth balls do deter many creatures, but they also poison things unnecessarily. Mammals are deterred more often then amphibians (highly sensitive to chemicals) and reptiles.

“I’m not against the use of chemicals, but using them unnecessarily with ill effects on other creatures, including us, sometimes is not necessary.” – Michelle Migliore

ANSWER: You are correct in your answer and the solution you describe is certainly a bit more humane and environmentally responsible! I will pass this along to other readers.

QUESTION: “We are starting to build on our lake lot that is mostly wooded. When we go in to fill in the lower areas, how much soil can we add around trees without damaging the tree? Does it depend on the type of tree? We have oak, basswood and iron wood.” – Bill Schroers

ANSWER: In my experience, if you put soil at the base of the tree to a depth of more than a couple of inches you risk killing them.

A better idea if you need to raise the level of the ground is to build wells around the trees extending 3 to 4 foot from the trunk and them add your fill dirt outside the wells. You might want to get a local tree expert to look at them before you start.

Remember the roots of a tree extend out towards the drip line, perhaps 20 feet or more and a tree gets most of its water and nourishment from the top 12 inch layer of soil. If you cover that up it can produce dire consequences.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org

A couple of weeks ago, I wrote a column that listed some helpful Web sites, hosted by the USDA, for gardeners and landscapers. A number of readers have contacted me and asked if I know of any more Internet resources. You bet I do!

Here are a few more Web sites that are definitely worth bookmarking so you can refer to them when you are suddenly faced with a specific question or problem. And as always, I’m happy to try and help you personally if you send me an e-mail at steve@landsteward.org

Many of these sites have long and complex Web addresses. When you’ve finished reading here, you might find it easier to go to my Web site www.landsteward.org and find this column under the Plant Man header where you can simply click on hot links to every site mentioned here.

http://oregonstate.edu/dept/ldplants/1plants.htm#prsuy

If you’re looking for a fancy Website with a lot of flash and bling, this isn’t it. But if you need to investigate just about any plant you can imagine, this is an excellent no-frills database. For example, go to the very first listing (Abelia) and you’ll find a concise description and a bunch of links to close-up photographs with titles such as plant habit, leaves, flowering branches, etc, etc.

In fact the data base is so large that it spreads across three Web sites. The link above is to part one (plants A through E) with the other two sites covering the rest of the alphabet.

http://magazine.audubon.org/backyard/backyard0309.html#raingarden

Have you ever wondered how you could save water, reduce pollution and help wildlife all at the same time? The author of this Audubon article figured out that 24,000 gallons of rain water cascades off her roof every year, and she decided to create her own mini-wetland; what she describes as a rain garden.

The site describes how to channel roof run-off to create your own rain garden, and includes suggested plants for each geographic region of the USA.

http://berrygrape.oregonstate.edu/fruitgrowing/berrycrops/blueberry.htm

If you can think of it, however specific, there’s probably at least one Web site devoted to it! For everything you could ever possibly want to know about blueberries, this site hosted by Oregon State University is the “go-to” resource.

You’ll find scores of articles on every aspect of successful blueberry plant growing, from site selection and mulching to propagation, pollination and harvesting. Plenty of related topic links, too.

http://www.grownative.org/index.cfm?fuseaction=plants.plantDetail&plant_id=66

Grownative.org. The name pretty much tells you what this site is all about. Here you’ll find guides that help you put native plants to work in your landscape. Although focused mainly on Missouri, this is a helpful resource for anyone interested in developing conservation awareness of native plants and their effective use.

http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/hortcult/herbs/ne208hrb.htm

If you enjoy cooking, then you know that nothing beats using your own home-grown herbs, snipped fresh from your own garden. Here, you’ll find an exhaustive guide to selecting, planting, growing and harvesting herbs.

There’s also a description with line drawings of hundreds of herbs, both popular and obscure with specific instruction for successfully growing and using each of them. Bon appetit!

http://www.lawncare.com/

If your lawn is more weed than grass, or if you just want to browse ideas and expert advice on how to keep your lawn lush and green, this is a site you’ll want take a look at. A nice feature: click on the “What to do now” button, type in your zip code and get tips on lawn care in your specific area updated for each season.

If you’d like to receive an e-mailed copy of my wife Cheryl’s personal “link library” filled with links to many more helpful Web sites, simply drop me an e-mail request and we’ll forward it to you.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org

This is a second chance to read one of the most-read columns, archived at www.landsteward.org

The days are getting shorter, the clocks have been turned and spring is not far away. At least that’s the way it is for all of us optimistic landscapers and gardeners. We just have to get through winter first!

So, as fall turns to winter, let’s take a quick look at some of our last “outdoor activities.” Some of these are mine and some are suggestions and ideas from readers of this column. Remember, your comments and questions are always welcome and can be very helpful to your fellow readers. Contact me at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll try to get a personal response back right away.
Here’s a tip from a reader who simply signed him (or her) self as Gerry, who picked up this idea while surfing the ‘Net.

Too wet to mow?

Gerry says that if you need to give the lawn one last mow, but the grass is wet from a recent rainfall, don’t give up too soon! Get a length of rope or garden hose and stretch it across one end of the lawn. (It would help to have someone hold the other end.) Simply drag the hose or rope across the lawn to displace the water droplets that will sprinkle down to the soil below. Wait a few minutes (maybe a quarter hour) and the blades of grass should be dry enough for you to mow successfully.

A river runs through it…

A river – or even a small stream – can make a mess of your basement. Right now would be a good time to check the grading around your home’s foundation to make sure it drains away from the house.

Check the grading every now and then during the winter because snow or heavy rainfall can erode soil or cause it to settle (particularly in flower beds close to the foundation). Water can then build up in these indentations and is likely to seep through to your basement or crawl space. Refilling or regrading these depressions will direct water runoff away from your home’s foundation.

Fruit tree clean-up

If you have fruit trees as part of your landscape, take a few minutes to remove any debris that you might find under and around them. Look for twigs and leaves, as well as the last remaining fallen fruit (particularly under late-fruiting trees) which should not be left to rot on the ground.

Insects and diseases can spend the winter months snoozing in the debris and emerge in the spring to attack your fruit trees. Remove these potential “bug motels” now and your fruit trees could have a healthier head start next year.

The “Deadwood Stage”

Winter storms can cause serious damage to age-weakened trees… and they, in turn, can cause VERY serious damage to your home! A lightning strike or a heavy coating of ice can easily snap off a dead or dying tree limb weighing a ton or more. And that can make a big hole in your roof.

Unless the suspect limbs are easily accessible, this is a job for a reputable tree surgeon who can tell you which branches need to be removed and which could be trimmed back or “strapped” to give them extra support. A sleigh on the roof on Christmas morning is one thing; a huge tree branch poking through your bedroom ceiling is not so much fun!

“Doctor, it’s time for the transplant!”

Shrubs, plants and trees are entering their dormant cycle right about now, so if you need to move one to a new location, this is the right time. First, pick your new location and dig a hole big enough to comfortably hold the root ball.

Then carefully dig out the root ball, being sure to retain as much of the root system as you can. Before the root ball can dry out, place it in the prepared hole, adding back some of the soil, along with some compost, peat moss or manure. You can also add some fertilizer specifically developed to encourage growth in transplants. Tall plants might need staking until their roots take hold.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org

For gardeners, landscapers and horticulturists, the Internet has proved to be a boon we couldn’t have imagined a few years ago. For us it’s not so much an Information Highway as a vast, lush Botanical Garden, filled with every kind of information and reference we could possibly want!

Today, I want to highlight some Web sites that you might find particularly helpful. They might be brand new or they might be old friends that are already firmly established in your Favorites file. Either way, I hope you’ll take a look at these sites as they can prove to be invaluable resources when you need plant-related information.

As you know, I invite questions from readers who can reach me at steve@landsteward.org and I do my best to answer those questions based on my own experience. However, there are times when I look to the Internet to investigate a particularly tricky plant problem, either one of my own or one posed by a reader. Even the best doctors have a library of reference books; we plant lovers shouldn’t feel bashful about seeking helpful information either!

http://plants.usda.gov
As this site says on its home page: “The PLANTS Database provides standardized information about the vascular plants, mosses, liverworts, hornworts and lichens of the U.S. and its territories.”

You can see why many people regard this site as THE database for plants. For example, here you can download a list of plants native to your state. Heck, you can even download a complete plants checklist (warning: it’s a big list). There is a gallery 0f 30,000+ plant images and you can submit your own photos to the gallery.

While you’re there, you can read about endangered plants or wetland plants in your region, or learn more about noxious and invasive plants. This is a treasure trove of plant information and well worth bookmarking.

http://www.csrees.usda.gov
One of the best places you can turn to for expert help and advice is an Extension Service. Go to this Web site, also maintained by the United States Department of Agriculture, and you are only a few clicks away from finding someone to answer your questions.

Technically, this site is the home of Cooperative State Research, Education & Extension Service (CSREES). Here you can browse a lot of land-related topics. But when you need help, click on the link to “Local Extension Office.” This will take you to a map of the USA from which you click on your state. Once you see the state map, click on your county and you’ll see the complete contact information you need.

Often a quick phone call will answer your question, or they can direct you to a specific resource. I’ve always found the people at Extension Services to be very happy to offer help and advice.

http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Feature/backyard/treeptg.html
The Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) hosts this Web site that is a “must see” if you’re thinking of planting some trees on your land but aren’t quite sure where to start.

You’ll find unbiased answers to a lot of questions you might have about what type of trees to select, issues to consider about placement before you plant and how to maintain healthy trees.

> From that page, you can also find links to other NRCS pages that address backyard conservation topics such as ponds and backyard wetlands, composting, mulching, terracing, wildlife habitat and pest management.

www.landsteward.org
Okay, I have to confess that this is the Web site that I host. I’m including it here because you can click on direct links to the other sites I’ve mentioned when you find this column under the Plant Man heading.

My objective with landsteward.org is make it a “resource of resources” for anyone needing information about trees, shrubs or anything relating to gardens and landscaping. Visitors can find an extensive library of plant-related articles, tips and hundreds of links to other Web sites.

I’ll point you in the direction of additional helpful Internet sites in a future column.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org. For resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free weekly e-mailed newsletter, go to www.landsteward.org