It seems that a lot of garden enthusiasts are really beginning to think about spring, judging by the volume of e-mailed questions arriving every day. If you have a question or a comment, drop me a line at steve@landsteward.org I’ll do my best to respond quickly with a personal reply, and some of the Q&A’s will appear in this column or in my newsletter.

QUESTION: “I enjoy your column and Web site and have learned a lot. I have a huge perennial garden and was wondering how you add compost, fertilizer, black dirt, etc when the plants are so close together and I can’t work the soil for fear of disturbing the plants. – Mary Jo Warren

ANSWER: Late winter/early spring is a great time to do this as the plants have died back to the ground and you don’t have branches/leaves to contend with. Mix aged manure/compost (I really like the Black Kow brand available in 50 lb bags at most hardware stores.) into the top portion of the soil, not disturbing the root systems.

You can also follow with some mulch at this time to keep the weed populations down. Early spring (just before your perennials begin to leaf out) is good to begin with a first application of fertilizer (especially if not adding in aged manure/compost mixture). A mild 5/10/5 slow release fertilizer applied in a ring around each plant with an additional 2 applications at 6 week intervals. Late bloomers will need an additional application in late summer. Broadcasting the fertilizer will also work as long as it doesn’t land on any leaves or in buds. Be sure to always water after fertilizing.

QUESTION: “I have a laceleaf weeping Japanese red maple. Should I prune it and if so when?”

ANSWER: I have one also and regularly prune it in March while the weather is still cool and it has not leafed out. Depending on where you are located, you may want to prune in February or March.

Clip out all of the dead branches/limbs as well as any that are touching or crossing over each other. When clipping back an entire branch for shaping, don’t clip flush with the trunk; leave a tiny nub (about ¼ inch out). Clipping flush with the trunk will leave a larger wound on the plant making it more susceptible to disease and fungus.

QUESTION: “I’m moving next week and my new house has everything I wanted except it’s a little closer to a 55 mph highway that leads to the only mall in town than I would like. So, I’m looking for ways to lessen the annoyance of the traffic noise. My first inclination is to go with a fountain of some kind, so the water sounds will override the traffic sounds. But I’d also like to use some plants/landscaping to do more. What would you suggest?” – Carol Evans

ANSWER: A fountain might be a good idea for an alternate “sound source,” but you may still want some kind a growing barrier to baffle the traffic noise. I’m not sure where you are located but you might want to look at something like the cedar green giants. Then, on the inside of that “living fence,” you could add some interesting flowering shrubs.

QUESTION: “When is the best time to prune crepe myrtles? Also, when is the best time to trim azaleas?” – Chad Cornelius

ANSWER: Crape myrtles bloom the best on new growth, so prune them in late winter or early spring. On mature plants, you should be able to prune them back about 1/3 of their size. Azaleas should only be pruned immediately after they complete their blooming period.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Roses are red Violets are blue, Better buy some for Sweetie Saint Valentine’s due.

As you read this, St. Valentine’s Day is just around the corner, and as indicated in my little rhyme, above, one flower in particular is associated with February 14. Hint: It isn’t the violet.

Why is St. Valentine so closely identified with love, romance and roses?

Although Valentine’s Day has its origins in third-century Rome – one legend claims that Valentine was a priest who secretly performed marriage ceremonies for soldiers and their brides during a time when soldiers were forbidden to marry – it was not until the eighteenth century that lovers started sending cards or notes to each other to mark the holiday. Flowers didn’t come into vogue until greenhouses allowed growers to force flowers to bloom in the dead of winter.

I found that tidbit in a new book by Amy Stewart, titled “Flower Confidential.” Here are some more Valentine-related revelations from the book:

During the two weeks leading up to Valentine’s Day, 12 to 15 million stems of Latin American flowers will arrive each day at Miami International Airport

Almost a third of American adults will buy flowers or a plant for Valentine’s Day. Roughly half of those people will purchase roses, mainly red roses.

Over a third of orders will be placed on February 13, and another 22% are called in on the holiday itself.

Americans buy 180 million roses for Valentine’s Day, and the average arrangement of a dozen roses costs just over $70.00.

In 2007, Valentine’s Day falls on a Wednesday. Flower sales peak when the holiday lands in the middle of the week, averaging $30,000 per shop.

A typical wage on an Ecuadorian flower farm is about $150.00 per month. Wages represent less than four cents for every rose sold.

Rose developers may spend seven years or more developing a new variety for market. An Australian team has been working for over ten years on developing a blue rose, using a pigment gene from petunias.

“Flower Confidential” contains more than just information on roses and Valentine’s Day, with hundreds of little known facts on the global flower market and tips and techniques to get the most out of your cut flowers. It is scheduled for publication February 9, 2007 by Algonquin Books.

However, the rose is the flower that is top of mind with everyone at this time of year. A couple of weeks ago in this column, I told you about some roses that are favorites of Cheryl’s and mine.

Just to remind you, they are collectively known as “Knockout Roses,” with varieties such as Knockout Red, Knockout Pink and Knockout Rainbow. All are delightful plants and don’t require a lot of fussing. If you missed that column or would like to read it again, you can find it at my Web site, www.landsteward.org Look for the column titled “These roses are easy to grow and very low maintenance.”

So here’s an idea. This year, how about planting some Knockout rose bushes for your sweetheart? Unlike a $70.00 bouquet that might only last a few days, tell your sweetie that, just like you love, these shrubs will last for years, growing stronger and more beautiful with each passing season. Now who could resist that?

Okay, it might be wise to also buy a sappy card and something personal. Only you can decide if “something personal” is a box of candy or a diamond bracelet. But for years of beauty in your garden, it’s hard to beat the vista of a beautiful grouping of colorful, fragrant rose bushes.

May you have a “blooming happy” St. Valentine’s Day!

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

At this time of year, with the Holidays a fading memory, optimistic gardeners are already beginning to emerge from their winter hibernation and look forward to the spring that is just around the corner.

In many parts of the country, the winter is proving to be milder than expected, but it’s definitely not over just yet. However, this is a perfect time to take care of all those little projects that seem to fill us with the realization that spring really is on the way.

Tool time
If you didn’t get around to prepping the lawn mower for winter, at least you can get it ready for spring! A thorough cleaning out of the accumulated dried-on gunk from the underside is a minimum. A new spark plug is a good idea, and call around to see if any of your local lawn mower service places are offering a pre-season deal on blade sharpening.

Transplant now
If you have mature or near-mature trees and shrubs that will need to be moved to a new location, now would be a good time to transplant them. At this time of the year, plants are still dormant and far less likely to experience trauma from being moved.

Fertilizer? Not yet!
Avoid the temptation to fertilize newly set out trees and shrubs just yet. Wait until they show the first signs of growth, and then only fertilize very lightly for the first year of growth,

Bag the bagworms
If you have any narrow-leaf evergreens such as Junipers, check them for bagworm pouches. The insect eggs spend the winter in those pouches only to emerge in the spring and begin chomping away on the foliage. If you find any bagworm pouches, remove them by hand, place them carefully in a paper bag and burn them.

Pre-emptive strike on weeds
In case you hadn’t noticed, it’s quite possible that weeds are already appearing and might already be going to seed. Take the time now to carefully remove weeds before their seeds can scatter and you will save a lot of backbreaking labor later on. As you pull out each of the little pests, tell yourself you are preventing hundreds or even thousands of weeds from invading your landscape in the months ahead.

Slug ‘em
Speaking of pests, be on the lookout for slugs as well as weeds. Slugs may be slow-moving, but they are highly prolific and left alone can produce hundreds of little slugettes that quickly produce even more.

Clip and trim
January and February are good months to prune back most deciduous trees and shrubs if they’ve gotten to look a little unruly over the past season. You can now prune flowering, fruit and shade trees. Be sure to use good, sharp shears for a clean cut. However, avoid pruning spring flowering plants such as forsythia as you’ll simply be removing their spring flowers.

Armchair gardening
Now is the perfect time to select shrubs and trees for spring planting. Research using library books or, more conveniently, sit at your computer and browse online. Use your imagination and get creative!

Get inspired
Yes, a little self-promotion here, but I think you’ll find it helpful. Drop me an e-mail and I’ll be happy to give you a subscription to my free weekly newsletter. It’s a good way to keep focused on your garden, and most weeks you’ll find Q&A’s or tips from other readers. Simply send an e-mail to steve@landsteward.org and put “newsletter” in the subject line.

A final thought
If your old Christmas tree is still lying around somewhere, here’s a good use for it. Cut off some of the branches and carefully lay them across any tender or early-flowering plants to protect them from a sudden cold snap.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.or

QUESTION: “I planted pachysandra two years ago under heavy shade trees. It is doing so-so. I now have a lot of leaves and I would like to clean up the area with a blower. Should I cover the plants with leaves for the winter or blow away the leaves? The plants are about 8 inches high.” – Sam Crow

ANSWER: Although pachysandra loves organic soil, I would still blow the leaves away and (if necessary) apply an aged compost mix around the base of the plants. Dry leaves that are chopped up make a great mulch to put around plants and in compost. However, fallen leaves that are in shady areas, and usually moist, often mold and become a haven for bugs as well.

The plants should be sturdy enough to take the blowing or you might rake the leaves carefully into the open and then blow them away.

It can take a good 2-3 years for a groundcover to establish itself. If winterburn occurs on your pachysandra, you can rejuvenate it with a mowing, using the mower’s highest setting, in early spring only. A good fertilizer would be in the range of 12-4-8.

My wife, Cheryl, fielded the following question that was a follow-up to a previous column.

QUESTION: “I read an article in your newsletter that suggested Epsom salts for crape myrtle. Did you also say that Epsom salts were good to get lilac to bloom? I may have gotten confused!” – Laura Fraser

ANSWER: Epsom salts is good for not only crape myrtles, but other trees, shrubs, roses, perennials, and vegetables. Due to erosion and lack of topsoil in many areas, many nutrients are lost. The Epsom salts add sulfur and magnesium back into the soil for the plants.

Use about 1/2 cup of salts per gallon of water over five or so of the plants every 4-6 weeks. It doesn’t hurt even when leaves are on the plants for it to hit them, as it will just absorb it through the leaves.

Previously in this column, I included a Q&A about insects that looked like ladybugs but in fact were not. Here, again, is that Q&A, followed by a recent comment from another reader. QUESTION: “I was reading your suggestion to keep wasp away, and I was wondering if you have any for ladybugs. Yes, I know ladybugs are a good thing but you know what they say about too much of a good thing. Everyone that has a place near a wooded area is having problems with these bugs. They can work their way around weatherstripping on doors and windows and never go away once inside your home. HELP!” – Don

ANSWER: We have the same problem. The critters that you are referring to probably are not “real” ladybugs, but migrating bugs that really become a problem at one time of the year. We have sprayed with a lot of different things but nothing seems to work for us either. The only thing I can tell you is they bite and your only defense is a fly swatter. I will post your question on www.landsteward.org and maybe someone else will have a solution.

And someone did!

COMMENT: I am responding to the query about how to control an infestation of ladybugs in the house. When we moved into our current house about three years ago, there were a lot of these insects inside the home. They would congregate in clumps around the windows and door frames, especially in the fall when the weather changes. We found a simply solution: We vacuumed them up with our household vacuum. Now, three years later, they are no longer a problem. Every now and then I will see one or two bugs, but the infestation is history. – Cassandra Niemczyk

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Is this the year to add that rose garden to your landscape? Or would you like to see a colorful rose hedge softening the appearance of a backyard fence or bordering a driveway?

Perhaps you’ve been putting it off, believing that roses are tricky plants to grow and you’re not sure you’re up to the task. Yes, some roses have acquired a reputation for being finicky plants. But if you select the right varieties, you will find they are a lot less demanding than you think.

Cheryl and I particularly like the varieties collectively known as “Knockout Roses.” In fact, we have a Knockout rose hedge at our home that demands very little of our time and attention.

Rose, Knockout Red
If you’re looking for a low-maintenance, disease-resistant, red shrub rose, this is probably the one you need. We’ve been amazed at its outstanding blooming capability. We’ve found that it will bloom from the early spring to the last frost in late fall. In 2004, it was designated the ARS Members Choice by the American Rose Society.

If you plant Knockout Red early in the season, you should see impressive repeat blooms the first year. In cooler weather, the blooms are a fluorescent fire-engine red, becoming a deep, dense pink in the heat of summer.

If you live in a humid area or tend to have fairly harsh, windy winters, you’ll find Knockout Red to be a hardy plant. Another benefit is that it is very resistant to the dreaded black spot and the tough leaves actually resist Japanese beetles.

Rose, Knockout Pink If you’d prefer a more delicate color, go for the Knockout Pink. Maturing into a neat 3’ x 3’ shrub, it sports bright pink blooms that stay throughout the growing season into late fall.

The petals fall cleanly so it doesn’t need deadheading. As with other Knockout varieties, the pink is disease-resistant, drought-tolerant and requires only 3 to 4 hours of sunlight a day.

Rose, Knockout Rainbow
The Rainbow is a fairly new addition to the Knockouts and is so named because it features lovely single blooms that change color as they mature. The blooms open orange from coral-pink buds, and then quickly turn soft coral-pink shading to gold at the base, surrounding a yellow center.

The blooms are about 2 inches wide and very colorful with a delightful scent of sweetbriar. It’s lovely to see a fully-blooming shrub, when the various colors of buds, new blooms, and mature flowers are present at once. When the blooms have passed, the shrub is covered with bright orange hips that will remain throughout the winter, attracting birds to your garden.

In addition to being an ideal choice for a hedge or driveway planting, Rainbow can add a ribbon of color to a perennial border or as a container plant.

Fairy Rose
While not a member of the Knockout Rose family, this one certainly deserves a mention. The Fairy has been around for a long time, 70 years or more, and can be seen at many of the country’s heritage gardens.

It produces delicate rosettes in clusters of pale pink from early spring until late frost. When the shrubs are spaced about 3 feet apart, they quickly mature into a solid 3 foot tall hedge of color in a sunny garden. Fairy would also be a nice focal point in a patio garden or as a colorful addition along a foundation.

You don’t have to be a dedicated rosarian to create a successful and colorful rose garden. Choose varieties, such as those I’ve described here, that are low-maintenance and disease resistant, and you can enjoy the sight and scent of roses all season with very little effort.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org