In a recent column there was a question from a reader who had a problem with moles. I asked for suggestions from other readers and I received a lot of response. If moles are giving you headaches, you might find these ideas helpful.

DEAR STEVE: ”I’m not quite sure what eats tulip bulbs, but I seem to have hit on a solution. The first year we had our country weekend place I planted tulips and saw not a single one in the following spring. Whatever it was did not eat or burrow through the daffodils or the bearded iris I planted.

”Last year I decided to try again and planted a circle of daffodils shoulder to shoulder around each clump of five tulips. This involved opening a 12-14″ diameter hole of the appropriate depth so that all bulbs could be deployed at the same time at the same depth. I covered them all up and when I was up to the appropriate depth, I put in aconite, muscari and crocus. Everything arrived in its turn this spring.

“The burrowing creatures at the bottom of the garden – moles or voles or likely both – almost killed Madame Isaac Periere by tunneling right under her this year, but avoided the chionadoxa planted in little clumps between the roses. I’m thinking they are planted at just about the same depth as the tunneling denizens of the lower yard and I am going to try tight phalanxes of such things around the ornamentals down there, making sure I have something planted at every depth I’ve seen the tunnels. It’s the Catskills; you don’t go too deep before you hit rock and the rock attracts the earthworms and the excavations I hog out to put in ornamentals like the roses make easy ground for burrowing creatures.

”I don’t know if this sort of defensive planting will work in this case, but the iris and daffodils I planted that first year are still there after four years in the middle of mole/vole metropolis. The iris are planted deeper there than I would have done down in Virginia where I come from because of the hard winters, so you’d think they would be subject to mole damage, but I’ve never found any tunnels under them. They thrive and grow enormous in the mountain climate and I have not seen any rhizome rot issues even though they do have to be covered with about an inch or two of earth.

“My suggestion: I’d try the repellant you described and some defensive planting. Other things down there that have never shown any sign of tunneling damage are coneflower and black-eyed susan, daylilies, peonies and shasta daisies.

“The garden backs up against a rather boggy bit of meadow that slopes down to our pond and nothing in that meadow seems bothered and the main residents are an assortment of grasses as well as Joe Pye weed (pink eupatorium) and its cousin, White Snake Root, white turtle heads further down, solidago in several varieties, blue vervain, elderberry, both the early purple and the later red, cuckoo flower (cardamine p.), false solomon’s seal, Canadian Mayapple, an assortment of asters and daisy fleabane, blue cohosh and trout lily at the higher dryer part, wild strawberries and other things too numerous to mention that grow and bloom and contribute to the lovely tumble.

“More cultivated things that were planted before we arrived up at the dry part where tunneling has been observed are Russian sage, creeping phlox and lamium, Mallow and butterfly weed also persist as well as chives. The clump of chives the former owners left behind is now a five foot swath. Onion-like plants might be a clue!” – Alice Standin

DEAR STEVE: I read your column with a question from a woman having critter problems. How well I know the problem! A friend gave me a Spurge plant a couple of years ago that truly works. As you know, they are quite invasive and toxic. As my garden is extensive, I have a “Spurge purge” about once a year, but now I have no moles or voles”. – Jo Laxton

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

During spring and summer we all tend to spend more time enjoying the outdoors part of our home. A lazy lunch on the patio on Sunday, perhaps, or relaxing on the deck with a cool drink as the sun goes down. Maybe an impromptu picnic in the backyard.

If you happen to live in a remote country setting, your closest neighbors are probably deer, bunnies and other assorted wildlife. But for most of us, suburban living means that our homes are in fairly close proximity to those of our human neighbors. Sometimes a little too close for comfort.

You don’t have to be a hermit to want a little privacy when relaxing in your backyard. But at the same time, you don’t want to build a mini version of the Berlin Wall and alienate everyone in the neighborhood. What can you do to create a private haven in your backyard while continuing to live in harmony with your neighbors?

Creating privacy with trees, shrubs and other plants provides a number of benefits. Firstly, of course, living plants are a lot more aesthetically pleasing than a “dead” wall or an expanse of bare fence. Additionally, a hedge or some appropriately-sized trees are a friendlier barrier between you and your neighbors than a solid wall.

“Appropriately sized” is an important factor here. A relatively small space would not be a suitable location for a stand of trees that would grow to a great height because they would eventually dominate your yard, blocking out all sunlight and probably becoming a bone of contention with your neighbors! Always determine the expected mature height before you invest in any trees that are intended to form a barrier.

So what to plant? Every situation will have its own unique characteristics, but a good starting point would be to look at…

Cedar Green Giant
I find myself recommending Green Giant more and more these days, particularly to homeowners looking for some privacy. For a start, it’s remarkably fast growing, shooting up three feet or more every year. Green Giant is an evergreen conifer with a delightful conical habit and dense, dark green foliage that reaches right down the ground. A few Green Giants, planted 3 to 5 feet apart will create a very dense screen; plant them further apart for a more open feel.

Green Giant doesn’t need a lot of TLC. It’s a hardy plant that tolerates almost any soil and is resistant to damage from ice and snow. Additionally, it is heat and drought tolerant, once established, and resistant to disease, pests and even deer.

Although it doesn’t need to be pruned, you should be aware that it can grow to a height of 30 to 50 feet. If you are planting a row of Green Giants as a living fence, you can easily keep it trimmed to 8 feet, 10 feet or whatever works in your situation.

This is a good time to be planning your privacy needs because fall will be here before we know it and Green Giant is ideal for fall planting. As you can see, this tree is definitely a favorite of mine! But there are other ways to use plants to enhance your privacy.

Emerald Green Arborvitae
If you can wait until next spring, you might consider Emerald Green, my favorite Arborvitae. Plant bare root Emerald Green in a row about 2 to 3 feet apart in the spring and in a few years, you’ll have a lustrous green hedge that maintains its color through the winter. You’ll need patience as it’s not a fast grower, but it is worth the wait.

Trellis plants Just a reminder that, in a recent column, I described some “social climbers;” vine-like plants that cling to pergolas, gazebos and latticework. If you missed it, you can find that column at my Web site, www.landsteward.org A strategically placed trellis can provide privacy but in a more open, less dense way than a row of Green Giants.

You are welcome to send me a few details about your specific challenges and I’ll try to help you create a private haven in your backyard.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

If you have an ugly fence or a bare expanse of wall, a lush, green vine might be the answer you’re looking for.

The word “vine” once referred only to grape plants, but now in American English usage, vine can include many varieties of climbing and creeping plants.

I know some people are hesitant to plant any kind of vine as they fear its potential to become invasive. However, if you are aware of this potential at the outset, you can either select varieties that are minimally invasive or decide to control the spread of your vines to keep them manageable.

Most vines are remarkably versatile plants, able to grow vertically if given a trellis or wall to cling to, or to spread horizontally across the landscape, creating a dense and verdant groundcover.

Let’s take a look at a few vines so you can see which ones might work best for you.

Climbing Hydrangea
A good choice if you will be planting away from direct sunlight because Climbing Hydrangeas are tolerant of shady areas. Actually, they prefer at least partial shade in hot areas of the country. However, they bloom more profusely when exposed to a fair amount of sun.

In early summer, Climbing Hydrangeas produce fragrant white groupings of blooms called lace caps, each about five inches across. The dried flower heads and reddish brown, peeling bark are attractive in winter. Climbing hydrangeas prefer moist but well-drained soil that is at least moderately rich.

Wisteria sinensis Also known as Purple Wisteria, due to the color of its blooms, this is a fast-growing vine that is ideal for trellises and arbors. You can also train it into tree form if you prefer. The bright purple flowers are about one inch long, appearing in late May, borne in dense, 6 to 12 inch long racemes.

Wisteria is actually a member of the Pea family and is named after an eighteenth century anatomy professor named Caspar Wistar. You can read a helpful fact sheet titled Growing Wisteria, published by the Ohio State University Extension Service at http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1246.html

English Ivy
Yup, this one really can be invasive, so understand that you will probably need to keep an eye on it and be prepared to take steps to contain it if it begins to spread beyond your desired area. Having said that, English Ivy is a very attractive plant (except to those who consider it a pest) and its dark green, glossy leaves, growing vertically in a dense mass can add an established characteristic quite quickly to new construction.

Baltic Ivy
As much a spreader as a climber, Baltic Ivy is often used as a groundcover in northern zones as it is an evergreen with remarkable cold hardiness properties. In fact it was brought to America from Latvia in 1907 by Alfred Rehder, curator of the Herbarium at Harvard University, who gave it the name “Baltic” Ivy.

A university bulletin, published in March 1932, stated that the plants: “have grown into a solid mantle of green reaching well above the second story windows.” As a consequence, in 1937, a journalist coined the term “Ivy League” to describe Harvard and seven other northeastern universities.

Purple Wintercreeper
Although it certainly can climb, given the opportunity, Purple Wintercreeper is seen most often as a groundcover. It can spread almost indefinitely by way of rooting stems, and thus it could be a good choice for an edger alongside a path or driveway that would act as a natural container.

Purple Wintercreeper can be a useful plant to battle erosion on slopes and hillsides and I have seen it climbing walls and the outsides of chimneys. It works equally well in the sunny or shady areas of your landscape.

Just a reminder: as I’ve mentioned before, a product that can be effective in controlling spreading vines is an herbicide called Vine-X Vine and Brush Control. Vines can be a pleasing addition to your landscape when kept properly under control. The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org