Professional gardeners and landscapers know an important “trick of the trade”: Fall isn’t the end of the growing season, it’s the beginning! And here’s why you should be thinking about planting right now.

Coo-ool weather
If you were the proud parent of an infant who was just a few months old, would you take her outside in her baby carriage under a blazing sun? Or do you think she would be more comfortable enjoying the open air on a cooler, less muggy day?

Think about your “plant babies” in the same way. In most parts of the nation, planting in spring means the tender little guys are soon exposed to the scorching heat of the sun and must endure it throughout the summer during a crucial time in their development.

However, fall planting is far less stressful on your plants. Shrubs and trees planted in the fall have the advantage of a cooler environment above, and perhaps something even more beneficial, out of sight below ground. Roots have the perfect opportunity to grow and establish themselves without the need to concentrate on providing nutrients as well.

In fact, the root systems of fall-planted plants can continue to grow throughout autumn and into winter, usually becoming dormant only when ground temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Essentially, planting in fall, instead of waiting until spring, gives your plants a head start of several months. By next summer they will be sturdy, resilient adolescents instead of vulnerable, tender babes, and far better prepared to take on the rigors of a hot, and possibly dry, summer.

Save water
Did I mention “dry”? Most trees and shrubs planted in spring require regular watering during this vital “establishment” phase of their development. Summer’s heat makes this even more critical.

But in the fall, you will not need to provide your new plants with nearly as much water. As you might imagine, evaporation is much less of a factor in the autumn, so water loss is greatly reduced. Additionally, a plant’s water requirements are considerably diminished when the natural process of photosynthesis slows down as the days become shorter.

Another water-related benefit is that in the fall you are unlikely to be faced with municipal watering restrictions that might affect your new plantings during a long, hot summer. Nothing is more depressing to a garden lover than to see new, young plants dying because of lack of water.

Lower prices
We all like to grab a bargain and smart gardeners can take advantage of sales and clearance-priced plants at this time of year. If you’re buying from a reputable nursery, the plants now on sale have probably been cared for throughout the summer by knowledgeable professionals and should be ready for fall planting… but at a much lower price!

It’s worth asking an expert at the nursery, or at least carefully reading the plant’s tag, to be sure of the best time to plant as this can vary from zone to zone.

Because the Internet makes just about every kind of shopping easier, don’t forget to do some research on your computer. Simply go to Google and type in “online nursery” and you’ll find perennial shrubs and trees ideal for fall planting at bargain prices.

Forget the fertilizer
Plant in the fall and forget the fertilizer until next spring. Why? Fertilizing new plants at this time of year could force new growth that would then fall victim to frost damage during the winter before it has time to harden off. Buying and using fertilizer is a chore and an expense you won’t need to worry about, at least until spring!

More fun, less stress
Many people tell Cheryl and me that they find fall planting more enjoyable. The reason, they say, is that they can concentrate on the planting in the slower-paced ambience of fall. With so much to do in a spring landscape, it’s easy to be distracted from the joy of planting.

It’s fair to say that some plants, including many groundcovers, may prefer spring planting, so it’s advisable to ask at your nursery or check the plant’s tag. But for the most part, planting now will give your garden a powerful head start on spring. The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Perhaps you enjoyed “Snakes on a Plane” as an entertaining movie. But it’s a whole less fun when it’s snakes in your home’s foundation, as this reader discovered.

QUESTION: “How does one get rid of snakes without poisoning pets? The snakes are around the house foundation and we believe they are Racers.” – Teresa Finch

ANSWER: According to the Web site www.snakesandfrogs.com “Black Racers are slender black snakes of adult size from 30 to 60 inches in length. They are called ‘racers’ because they are active, fast moving snakes. Usually, these snakes quickly slither to the safety of thick grass or brush when encountered. If cornered or grasped, they will bite viciously in defense.” However, they are not venomous.

As you might guess, snakes generally go where there is a food source. Chances are that they are eating rats, mice, frogs and large insects, and the black racers also eat poisonous snakes.

When it comes to snakes, and most other unwanted critters for that matter, prevention is the best cure. Limit the habitat and food source for the snakes’ prey and you reduce the likelihood that snakes will take up residence once those tasty rodents and insects are scarce.

Here are some quick and simple ways to achieve this:

Keep the area around you house mowed. Tall grass invites small rodents and insects.

Trim or prune excessively dense or overgrown shrubs for the same reason.

Be sure that garbage containers are covered.

Remove all brush and stone piles that would attract rodents.

Patch all holes into the foundation or crawl space of your house, including drain pipes.

Steve and I live way out in the country where most of the adjoining property isn’t cleared off, and outside cats and large dogs have pretty much kept snakes away from the immediate area around the house.

Here’s an idea you might want to consider. Water soluble granulated sulfur can be spread over the yard and watered-in to keep fleas and tick under control, but I have also read where it will keep snakes at bay as well. Check your hardware store or farmers’ co-op for a supply source. If you do decide to use granulated sulfur, it’s essential to read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions and avoid inhaling the dust.

QUESTION: “Our backyard has been a challenge since we bought our home. We have always teetered on the fine line of lawn and weed infestation. Well, last summer we let it do itself in and we have since been unable to reverse the affects.

“The lawn was Bermuda with rye grass and many different weeds mixed in from the neighboring vacant lots. The Bermuda was not well established when we bought the house and I’m not sure there is even any Bermuda left at this point. Our back yard is a smorgasbord of weeds, rye grass and dirt spots and, newly added this summer, thorns (goat heads). What can we do to fix our lawn?

“My husband seeded it but they were choked out at a delicate age (and probably not done correctly, don’t tell him I said that). We don’t have the money to do sod so what are our cheap options to fix a dying lawn in a hot area? What can we do to conquer the weeds once and for all and get rid of the goat heads which so conveniently came up around our children’s swing set? ANSWER : There are a multiple of things going on in your yard. It sounds like everything from poor drainage and compacted soil, to unhealthy soil. (Weeds do great in unhealthy soil) But the good thing is you are coming into the fall that is a great time to start over and you should be able to do it yourself.

Here is an online site I have used in the past for lawn questions. It is a commercial site for Scott’s turf builder but does give great advice. http://www.scotts.com/smg/brand/scotts/scottsBrandLanding.jsp?branPage=scotts

You can also click on the link when you find this column at my Web site, www.landsteward.org The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

QUESTION: “I was looking for information online about blueberries, plants for shade and composting and found your site. Could you email me the article on composting as I would like to start a compost pile.

”Also I did have a question on my established blueberry plants. They are 6 mature plants; they are 4 feet high and I know two of them are Northland variety that were here when we moved in three years ago. I transplanted them in a row about 2 feet apart, to the east side of our woods as we live in a wooded two-acre lot. They were near the house where they received only a few hours of sun midday so I thought they would get more sun on the outer edge.

”I haven’t pruned them yet as I didn’t know how to do it. (They really need it!) I recently found this information that recommends peat moss, sand, or sawdust in the soil. My question is: should I dig up the plants and re-plant them with the adequate soil content? The soil we have has more clay matter. I do not know the pH level of the soil. They did better last year for bearing fruit but have much new growth this year. Thanks for your help!” – Karen

ANSWER: Here are links to the composting articles that I believe will be helpful: http://landsteward.org/page.cfm/33585, http://landsteward.org/page.cfm/8875

Additionally, if you simply go to the landsteward.org site and put “compost” in the search field, you should find about ten Plant Man columns and articles on aspects of composting and soil enrichment.

As for the blueberry plants, I would not dig them up and replace the soil, at least until after dormancy. I would, however, begin to add organic things to the soil as a top dressing that will leach down and become part of the soil over the years. The best thing I have found is a product called Black Kow. It is a composted manure and as a top dressing it is really wonderful on the plants and leaves no odor.

QUESTION: “We have a steep hill in front of our house. The house was built on a “pad” which was carved out of the hill. We are new to the house but we suspect that erosion has taken place beyond the front yard down the steep slope. I have thought of terracing but it is hard to imagine how to terrace it as it is so steep. We would like to do this the most inexpensive yet productive way.” – Liz

ANSWER: For serious erosion problems, you should install erosion netting. This will control the situation and allow you time to consider what you would like to plant there. You can follow up with ground covers, ornamental grasses, shrubs, perennials, etc, by cutting X’s in the netting and planting.

However, you will need to set a sprinkler on the area for longer periods to make certain that the water goes through the netting and into the ground. Mulch wouldn’t be a good idea over it as it would only wash away.

QUESTION: “I have recently purchased a farm that included a pond. However this pond looks like it was designed to grow duckweed! Do you have any suggestions on how to kill this pest without the need for store bought highly priced chemicals?” – Victor Cummins

ANSWER: Duckweed is a simple plant without any obvious stems or leaves. They float on or just below the surface of the water and are a food source for water fowl (and even humans in parts of southeast Asia). Once established in a pond, duckweed can be difficult to eradicate. If a colony of duckweed covers the water surface, oxygen depletion can occur, killing any fish in the pond. These plants should be controlled before they cover the entire surface of the pond Here is a link to Perdue University on controlling duckweed and watermeal. Good luck on the situation. http://www.btny.purdue.edu/pubs/APM/APM-2-W.pdf The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

Of all the plants in our landscape, it seems the one area that needs the most attention is the lawn. Trees and shrubs seem content to live pretty much without our constant attention. But ignore your lawn and before long you’re living in a wild meadow.

Here are my Ten Turf Tips to get your lawn safely through the heat of summer.

Don’t over-water
At the height of summer, there’s a temptation to water your lawn every day. Just because you need a drink of water doesn’t mean your lawn does. Instead of daily watering, give your lawn a thorough soaking less frequently, once or perhaps twice a week. This practice forces the grass to push down deeper roots making it stronger and healthier.

Avoid over fertilizing
If one pound of lawn fertilizer is good, ten pounds must be ten times as good, right? Wrong. Apart from being a waste of money, applying too much fertilizer or applying it unevenly can burn the blades of grass, leaving brown spots. Overdoing the fertilizer, in combination with over-watering, can also increase thatching which prevents water reaching the roots and encourages disease and pest problems.

Natural fertilizer
Leave grass clippings on your lawn after you mow. As they decompose, they will naturally add a certain amount of fertilizer back into the lawn. I should add that this works best when you’re mowing on a regular basis so that the coverage of clippings is fairly light.

Naughty Fido
Another cause of brown spots is dog urine, particularly female dog urine. If you see it happen, your best bet is to grab the hose and give it a quick blast of water. The lawn, that is, not the dog. This will dilute much of the urine before it has a chance to “burn” the grass. I’ve heard from readers who recommend feeding dogs a low protein diet to reduce nitrogen in the urine, or adding tomato juice to the feed or baking soda to the water. I strongly suggest asking your veterinarian before trying any solution of that nature!

The mower did it!
No dogs in the neighborhood, but you still have a brown spot? If you refuel your mower while it is standing on the lawn, spilled or runoff fuel could be the reason. Refill the mower’s tank away from the lawn or place a tarp under the mower. Or be very, very careful.

When to water
Regardless of where you live, the best time to water your lawn is between 5:00 a.m. and 9:00 a.m. Watering in the heat of the afternoon means that much of the water will evaporate before it can filter down to the roots. Watering at night can increase the likelihood of pest and disease problems.

How much water?
One way to see how much water your sprinkler is putting out is what I call the Tuna Can Test. Put a few empty tuna cans or cat food cans out on the lawn and turn on your sprinkler for exactly 15 minutes. Turn it off and measure the depth of the water caught in the cans. Take the average depth and multiply by two, to tell you how much water you grass would receive in 30 minutes. As a rule of thumb, that should ideally be about one inch.

Keep off the grass!
As much as possible, avoid walking on grass that has just been watered or when dew is still on the ground. This is also true for frost-covered lawns in the winter. You could bruise or damage the blades of grass making them susceptible to disease.

Walk on the grass
… when it’s not wet, that is. Put on a pair of golf shoes and stroll around your domain while your body weight pushes the spikes into the lawn to provide much needed aeration. You can actually buy lawn aerator overshoes, but some people find them awkward and difficult to keep on.

Use a reel mower
Sometimes called a push mower, a reel mower can be a good solution for a small to mid-sized lawn. No more buying expensive fuel, inhaling smelly fumes or splitting your eardrums. Plus it’s healthy outdoor exercise! The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org